By Elizabeth Douglas, Marketing and Communications

With a background in medieval cultural history and a deep love of beer, Dr. Noëlle Phillips couldn’t help but ask herself, “Why do people like beer? What’s enjoyable about it?”

With over 70 breweries in Vancouver alone, it’s undeniable that the city and its surrounding areas are hubs for the growing craft beer community. But as Phillips explores, our region’s love of lager isn’t just a modern trend. Stepping into the ale archives, she traces Vancouver’s brewing history back to the 1880s while uncovering little-known stories along the way.

While her previous books focused on brewing in medieval contexts, her newest book centres around a more recent, local history. Brewmasters and Brewery Creek: A History of Craft Beer in Vancouver, Then and Now takes us back to 1887 with the city’s first independent brewers. From the early pioneers, through prohibition and its resurgence in the 1980s, Phillips shows how beer is more than just a drink. 

“Alcohol has always been an important industry in Vancouver, and it also became an industry that helped people feel at home,” says Phillips. “When they started making beer locally, as opposed to importing it, it was a way for newcomers to feel like they had some ownership in the city. It was a way to consolidate community.”

All in the hops

Not only does Vancouver have a rich history in independent brewing, but its modern-day beer scene rivals some of the top West Coast brewing cities. Competing with brewing heavyweights like Portland and San Diego, Phillips says that the reputation of our local beer is one to brag about. 

It’s not just the quality of Vancouver’s beer, but also its unique flavour profile that puts it on the map. 

“When a beer is called ‘West Coast’ or ‘Pacific Northwest,’ it’s usually about the hops that are used. Citra hops have very bright citrus flavours, as well as resin notes like juniper and pine make you think of the forest,” she says. “Malt is also becoming a staple. There’s more craft malt now, and there are a lot of breweries using locally produced, locally roasted malt. They’re making it right here in B.C. with their own style of roasting and growing it on B.C. agricultural land.” 

While her love of local beer is strong, Phillips says a favourite would be impossible to choose. 

“It all depends on what mood I’m in. I love a beer that fits whatever situation I’m in. One day it might be a pilsner, the other day it could be an imperial stout. There’s no one all-time favourite beer, that’s what I love about it.”

Barriers to brewing

Although craft brewing in Vancouver shows no sign of slowing down, the current economic climate and rising rental costs don’t come without a price to independent brewers. This financial reality furthers Phillips’s passion to promote them. 

“I think sometimes people feel that craft beer is a luxury and that they’re charging too much, but you’d be shocked at how difficult it is for these brewers to survive,” she says. “They put their heart, soul and sweat equity into this job.” 

For most craft breweries, small staffing numbers and low profit margins are the norm.  

“Even companies as large as Red Truck Beer Company that make a lot of beer and have a huge facility, don’t have giant profit margins,” Phillips explains. “You’re working with limited employees, limited funds and you’re just trying to make beer good enough that people are willing to buy it.”

A future for fermentation

Despite the challenges local brewers face, Phillips is confident that with support, Vancouver will maintain its well-earned reputation.  

“We may see slightly fewer breweries moving forward, but they’re going to be high-quality. They’re going to keep making beer that’s worth paying that premium price,” she says. “Help the local community, support your local business owner. They’re working so hard to brew this kind of beer for us. So, cheers to them!”

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